Guides

Guides about leather goods: how to choose and customized your bespoke and exclusive leather accessory, tech and common tips from the world of leather and informations about leather care and much more.

Suede and Nubuck Leather Goods Care Kit Guide

Suede and Nubuk Leather Care Kit Box

Dear Customer,
we would like to thank you for choosing Casanova1948’s Suede and Nubuck Leather Goods Care Kit.

If you still are not our customer we appreciate if you take care of your leather products using our leather care instructions ( with specific leather goods brushes and creams ).

To use this guide, if you are not an owner of our leather care kit. please get: 1 brass shoe brush, 1 rubber brush, 1 brush with natural rubber and bristles, 1 brightening spray (no gas) and 1 cotton cloth. Buy the specific leather goods polish products only from specialized shop online or in your town ( ask for any question ).

Important! this instructions are only for Suede and Nubuck Leather, avoid to use them with Smooth ot Textured Calfskin and Exotic Skins..

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR SUEDE OR NUBUK LEATHER GOODS:

  1. Remove dust from the shoe by gently brushing it with the brass shoe brush.
  2. Scrub vigorously with the rubber brush to remove any stain or marks on the shoe (use the small natural rubber brush for the hard-to-reach parts, e.g. near the sole or the seams).
  3. Give a second gentle brushing with the brass shoe brush.
  4. Shake the brightening spray bottle, then apply the brightening spray at distance of 15/20cm. Let dry for about 20 minutes.
  5. Brush again gently with the brass brush and the small brush, possibly following the same direction with the strokes.

Leather Care Kit. pdf Guide

Enjoy your shoe care!


additional resources: Leather Care and Exotic Leather Care Guide

Smooth Leather, Textured Leather and Exotic Skins Care Kit Guide

Smooth & Textured Exotic Leather Care Kit

Dear Customer,
we would like to thank you for choosing Casanova1948’s SMOOTH, TEXTURED AND EXOTIC Leather Care Kit.

If you still are not our customer we appreciate if you take care of your leather products using our leather care instructions ( with specific leather goods brushes and creams ).

To use this guide, if you are not an owner of our leather care kit. please get: 2 tins of polish ( neutral and black ), 2 shoes polishing brushes ( neutral and black ), 2 shoes polish daubers ( natural and black ), 1 cotton cloth and Meltonian or Casanova1948 Neutral and Black cream. Buy the specific leather goods polish products only from specialized shop online or in your town ( ask for any question ).

Important! this instructions are only for Smooth and Textures Leather, Alligator and Lizard Skins, avoid to use them with Suede or Nubuck Leather goods.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR SMOOTH, TEXTURED AND EXOTIC LEATHER GOODS:

  1. Remove dust from the shoe with a clean brush (the natural wood brush for lighter leather, the brown brush for darker leather)
  2. With the dauber (again, use the natural wood to apply clear polish, and the brown wood for dark/black polish), spread the polish evenly over the entire surface of the shoe, especially on the seams, and let it absorb; this will restore leather hydration and preserve the seams.
  3. Leave the polish in place for about 20 minutes, then buff the shoe with brisk, side to side motions of the brush.
  4. Give the final touches with the cotton cloth to remove any excess polish on the shoe.

Leather Care Kit. pdf Guide

Enjoy your shoe care!


additional resources: Leather Care and Exotic Leather Care Guide

International Banknote size for reference when choosing a classic, compact or slim wallet

banknote dimensions

Does the wallet fit my bills? Here’s a list of the major currencies’ banknote size (updated in 2017), to help you understand if your bills will fit right into the wallet you wish to buy.

Classic men’s wallets of most major brands and designers are usually large enough to fit any kind of currency. The same is true for all our bigger formats.

Our classic wallets and long wallets, both in calfskin and exotic leathers, are all compatible with large format banknotes.

But what about compact or slim wallet with money clips or other small and custom made wallets? Most of our compact wallets can also fit the most common international banknotes. Nonetheless, we suggest you compare the product description and data sheet with the list of the major international banknotes out below as a reference guide. For any further doubt, please contact us and we will come back to you as soon as possible.

Women’s wallets are usually larger in size and are therefore a perfect fit for all kinds of banknotes. Recently, however, our female customers have shown interest in purchasing more compact wallets, perhaps to use them in the summer or in more formal occasions. Whatever your reasons, please refer to the following guide to the most common size of banknotes for your convenience.

* Research updated on June.2017

Banknote Dimensions: US Dollar
All US Dollar have the same dimensions: 6.14 inches wide x 2.61 inches long ( 156mm x 66.3mm )

United States Dollar Specs (Wiki)


Banknote Dimensions: Euro

Euro banknote specs and security features against counterfeiting


Banknote Dimensions: British Pound

Banknotes of the British pound sterling (Wiki) Current Banknotes of England


Banknote Dimensions: Canadian Dollar
All Canadian Dollar have the same dimensions: 152.4mm x 69.85mm

Outline of Canadian Banknotes and specs


Banknote Dimensions: Australian Dollar

Current Australian Banknotes


Banknote Dimensions: Japanese Yen

Outline of the Issuance and Circulation of Japanese Banknotes


Banknote Dimensions: Russian Rubles

Current Russian Banknotes


How the Leather Tanning Process Works

Exotic Leather Tanning Process

Preparation

In order to increase the penetration of the tanning agents, the raw hide undergoes a process of preparation, which may include dermal relaxation and partial saponification of the fats. Another typical step is liming, where hydrated lime (a basic agent) is added to remove any hair left on the outer surface of the hide.

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Leather Care and Exotic Leather Care

Leather Care

Leather Care

CALFSKIN

Never leave your leather exposed to water, chemicals, and the elements, as they will discolor your leather items. The life of your leather good will also be dramatically shortened if it is not kept conditioned: if too dry, it will begin to crack and the finish will fade as well.

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Choose Own Leather Belt

Dark Tan Alligator Belt

A belt, an essential accessory that gives character to your look, must be adapted not only to your own personal style, but also to the style of clothing and the occasion in which it is being worn.

For everyday outfits, casual and classic belts will probably be the best choice, while formal belts may be more appropriate during special events or dinners.

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Brand name Belt types and Designer Buckles Compatibility

Belt Buckles Types Leather Belt Strap Models

As you may be aware, there are several kinds of buckles to fit many types of belts, both for men and women.
Since the 50’s and with few exceptions, all name and designer brands have been selling different types of buckles and here is a sum up of the most common ones :

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Fabric Glossary & Textile Fibers Codes

Casanova1948 textile fibers codes and fabric glossary

A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z

Common Textile Terms Translations Table

Textile Terms Glossary is a useful web resource of technical terms popular in the textile industry. Textile Fibers Codes is a must have resource for international translations of textile fiber codes.

A

Absorbency
The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is a very important property, which effects many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery.

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Value of Animal Parts and Skins

INTRODUCTION

Few understand the importance of the animal parts used in the production of leather products in regards to both the type of product that you intend to buy as well as the leather used to make it.

We must first focus on the type of leather in question. Different considerations apply when we use classic skins such as calfskin versus exotic skins such as alligator, python or iguana.

CALFSKIN

In the case of the calf, an initial assessment should be made on the quality of leather used: whether it’s full-grain rather than crust, or whether it’s first choice, second choice or even lower grades.

Casanova1948 only uses first choice whole or half natural calfskins from calves found in the Alps and bred in the wild or semi-stable. This is because they provide an elastic, soft, breathable grain of the utmost quality.

The leather may be soft, semi-soft or semi-rigid skin (depending on its intended use), and they may be drum dyed, finished with aniline or semi-aniline dyes, or even chrome tanned with vegetable tannins; they are almost always waterproof.

Soft-grain Pebbled Calfskin

SOFT-GRAIN Pebbled Calfskin

Saffiano Printed Calfskin

SAFFIANO Printed Calfskin

Smooth Calfskin Box Leather

Smooth Calfskin BOX Leather

Belt saffiano soft leather premium natural medium grain

Saffiano printed soft leather: medium grain

Belt saffiano semi-soft leather printed small grain

Saffiano printed soft leather: small grain

A distinctive feature of some accessory collections is the use of soft leather naturally or gently sanded, such as Saffiano leather, with a medium or small grain according to the desired look. More specifically, in the realization of belts and bags larger grain is used to enhance and enrich the full-grain. Conversely, a fine grain may be used on small leather products, resulting in a more delicate design.

On the other hand, products made with smooth leathers can come in many varieties such as: first grade, soft, and elastic leathers, or even colored leathers that range from the most traditional to the seasonal color options.

The exotic skins come in two main cuts:

Front Cut (the cut is through the belly and the back remains intact): certainly less common, used on ground or water snakes, as well as lizards, iguanas, monitors and some fish and mammals. The front cut changes from animal to animal and this difference becomes all the more evident as the scale and skin patterns change and as the texture of the skins change in certain species.

Back Cut (the cut is through the back and the belly remains intact): often used on snakes and pythons, the back cut shows off the distinctive scale pattern in the center of the belly (the part that says in contact with the ground when animal crawls).

ALLIGATOR and CROCODILE

In the case of alligators or crocodiles it is possible to use the whole animal, creating a seamless product that retains the distinctive pattern of the animal and its particular characteristics, starting from the head and ending at the beginning of the tail. This results in a high implementation cost. Often, to keep costs down, but also for aesthetic choices, you can also use the sides, spine or tail.

Full Belly Alligator / Crocodile (the belly is fully preserved)

Alligator belly fully preserved

Alligator belly fully preserved

The use of the stomach and surrounding areas is common in the production of luxury wallets and seamless belts for the more astute clientele.

It requires the utilization of the entire surface area of the animal belly to realize this article, especially in the cases of belts and bags. It also generates a large amount of wasted product that cannot be subsequently used.

Products created in this way typically have a pattern that varies with the natural change of the reptile skin while preserving its consistency and naturally occurring characteristics unique to that animal. The only drawback is the cost of the final product, which will be several thousand euro due to the large amount of wasted material.

Alligator / Crocodile Full Hornback (the back is fully preserved)

Alligator hornback fully preserved

Alligator hornback fully preserved

Less frequent but no less valuable is the use of the full hornback, or the rigid portion of skin that runs along the back of crocodiles, alligators and caimans, starting immediately behind the head and ending at the tail.

It is composed of four rows of osteoderms, or bony plates, on top of which lies the dermis, serving as a protective armor for the animal.

If you’re looking for a highly textured leather product that is sure to create a visual effect and draw attention, an accessory made in hornback is certainly a unique exotic leather option.

 

Alligator / Crocodile Flanks

Alligator Flanks

Alligator Flanks

The use of the crocodile’s flanks (or sides) makes it possible to create a high quality product with a homogeneous round grain of varying sizes without the use of splices for those pieces up to about 100cm in length; when using longer lengths it becomes necessary to splice together two different sides, and this is where the skill, experience and artwork of the craftsman himself comes into play. A master craftsman is able to splice the two flanks together only minimally modifying the original surface of the reptile.

We manufacture products in full skin, for those who are able to spend larger sums of money due to the high cost of raw materials, as well as products made with first choice crocodile flanks. With the utmost precision, we meticulously apply any eventual splices on these flank products if deemed necessary, and fully inform the client about product details such as these, so that each individual product may be fully appreciated for its characteristic features and handiwork.

Alligator / Crocodile Tail

Although not as common due to the limited availability, we also produce belts and wallets with crocodile tail, the cost of which is comparable to the flanks but for completely different reason. Some customers prefer crocodile tail as its skin pattern is composed of rectangular shapes that are consistent in size and dimension.
The tail, due to its inherent structure, can only be specially processed with horizontal splicing, which gives the leather a very unique aspect and enhances the final look of the product.

PYTHON

Front Cut and Back Cut

The actual cut of the python plays an important role when choosing the correct piece to be used for the final product. The two main cuts are Back-cut (Cut through the back lengthwise – the belly remains intact) and Front-cut (Cut through the front lengthwise – the back remains intact) ; however, it is the eventual utilization and application of these pieces that determines the value of your product. For example, a certain product may result in a large amount of unused/discarded material. Another determining factor may be the presence of one or more splices (pieces being stitched together).

The skins of the Python Molurus or Python Reticulatus must be cut lengthwise to avoid the occurrence of many splices. When looking at the back cut (the cut in which the belly remains intact) we can choose to use either the side flanks or the central cut.

Python  Back Cut

Python: Back Cut

Python  Front Cut

Python: Front Cut

 

Rock Matte Python Belts; from top : upper side lateral cut, central cut (full pattern),  lower side lateral cut

Rock Matte Python Belts; from top : upper side lateral cut, central cut (full pattern), lower side lateral cut

The central cut is typically used because the scale pattern towards the centerline of the belly is much wider. This occurs naturally throughout the course of the snake’s lifespan because it is, of course, this central section that stays in contact with and drags along the ground. Only a couple of belts can be made with a central cut.

It should be noted that these single-piece belts have a far greater value than a belt made with two or more separate pieces.

In the case of small leather goods, we use a single piece of python skin whenever possible in the construction of a wallet or clutch, therefore enhancing the quality and inherent characteristics of the product.

 

Diagonal Splices

Some products are made with diagonal cuts of the python skin. The craftsman uses the back cut of the python (the cut in which the belly remains intact) and cuts the skin diagonally into small strips. These strips are then carefully placed side by side, creating a pattern that differs from the python’s natural skin pattern but can be especially pleasing in certain colors. Although it requires more processing, the final product is still more cost-effective since it results in a lower amount of discarded skin.

IGUANA / LIZARD (Front Cut and Back Cut)

The lizard and other similar species such as the monitor, iguana and tejus, are smaller in size when compared to other reptiles and with single-piece cuts can be used to make watch straps, wallets, and small clutches. On the other hand, belts and purses, and medium/large-sized leather goods require the use of spliced pieces.

Articles made of lizard skin are often composed of diagonally cut pieces carefully hand-stitched together with a trained eye. The beauty of the product comes in the uniformity of these seems. While the seems themselves can only be noticed by a very thorough examination, the repeating pattern that results is as consistent as possible throughout the belt, bag or shoe.

While smaller products may be made with a one-piece designs, bags and shoes require the use of more than one piece of leather. In this case the choice of leather also plays a particularly important role since two skins must be used that are not perfectly equal. Therefore, it is up to the craftsman to identify the skins that are most similar to avoid any notable texture differences in the finished product.

STINGRAY

Because of its particularly rigid texture, even after being treated, stingray leather requires a great deal of expertise and specialization when being worked with. Very few artisans possess the adequate craftsmanship and skill needed for creating high-quality stingray products.

Stingray belt

Stingray belt

The ability to work with this fantastic skin (called Galuchat, named after the inventor of this method) lies in the preservation of its uniform “mosaic surface and bringing out the diamond-shaped pearls (called “eyes”), a distinctive trait of the stingray on the dorsal side.

In the realization of products made in stingray leather, the stitch work plays a truly fundamental role. Furthermore, it requires a very high level of expertise due to its difficult surface texture as well as the use of special machines to form these seams. In addition to its remarkable characteristic features described above, the true beauty of these products lies in the fact that no two animals have the same coloration or diamond-shaped “eye.” As you can imagine the final product of such a rare display of leather and craftsmanship will be distinctly unique.

OSTRICH (Front Cut)

Only the front cut of the ostrich is valuable, as the back is the only part of the animal covered by its characteristic follicles (the junction points where the feathers enter skin). These follicles, the shape of which is often described as diamonds or pearls, create a distinctive, bumpy texture that is both unique and inimitable.

Ostrich Leather

Ostrich Leather

Splicing is not required in the realization of small leather goods in ostrich leather since we only use single-piece skins, the cost of which is much higher (second only to alligator or crocodile). If the article is particularly long, it is necessary to make a single seam in order to maintain its diamond-textured structure. For example, this is the case for belts with a waist measurement of over 90cm, even with diagonal cuts (which exploits the majority of useable surface). Consequently, this method results in a large amount of product waste in the process.

In the case of bags or shoes the main objective is to maintain the original macular pattern, albeit with obvious constraints due to stitching separate pieces together in order to construct the article.